You should not make any hasty choices that you will regret. If vital, tell your roofer to prevent all work on this task until finally this issue is resolved (assuming, of course, that the roof sheathing is secured by asphalt felt or the same underlayment.)
Ideally, you want to have an airtight barrier earlier mentioned and beneath your fiberglass batts. If you're able to obtain All those two air boundaries, then wind-washing isn't really a concern within a roof like yours. (It may be in the vented unconditioned attic, needless to say, Primarily close to the soffits.)
Our cooler mornings could make the interior of my steel roof sheeting to sweat somewhat because It will probably be in connection with the warmer unvented fiberglass-insulated purlin "cavity" beneath. When our very hot Caribbean sunshine begins to kick in I need this dampness to dry and/or diffuse out of the cavity, with the gypsum sheeting, in to the cathedral dwelling House down below, to then be blown away from my 4x3 gable window. A vapor barrier would completely retard this method.
Cut-and-cobble is surely an insulation technique utilized by some homeowners, but never by insulation contractors. It involves reducing rigid insulation into slender rectangles, and inserting the rectangles concerning rafters or studs.
I are convinced you'll want to publish a sketch. I can not visualize what you are talking about out of your description. If you would like put in an HRV in the attic, why do you'll want to put in a waterproof stucco roof over some sort of EPS box? Is just not your attic currently dry? Most attics have roofs.
Martin, re: changing the attic in excess of the 2nd story bedrooms to the conditioned attic and sealing the soffit vents.... Ahead of this most current notion about insulating with rigid foam along with the cathedral ceiling, we had been intending to cut a ridge vent in to the gable ridge, in order to fulfill air flow code necessities. Now we have eave vents plus two reasonably worthless gable vents, just one on both sides.
You wrote, "the rafters are still uncovered," but I am unsure Whatever you mean by that. Do you have got kraft-faced batts involving the rafters, With all the kraft experiencing even now visible?
U.S. making codes do not need using interior vapor boundaries, even in cold climates. The things they do involve can be an inside vapor retarder. you could check here This need might be content with kraft facing on fiberglass batts or vapor-retarder paint.
Sounds like you More Bonuses might have the framing and roofing in place. Your options are explained from the short article previously mentioned--you may include venting by installing baffles down below the sheathing to hold back again the insulation, or you could install at the least R-twenty of air impermeable insulation.
Code won't feel to apply since it's grandfathered in. It appears like I need to redo the hall ceiling.
Perfectly the roof is occurring with the 1st layer of insulation (on-top rated the purlins, underneath the roof sheeting). There appears to get adequate Place still left inside the four" purlin cavity for the next layer of R11 to become set up with no modification.
I'd choose to use the exterior wall and roof sheathing as my Main air barrier; cdx plywood with all seams taped, which form of forces me to maintain the read here roof venting on top of the roof sheathing, while you explain in paragraph seven of this article. I would wish to use Solitex Mento as a permeable roofing underlayment, in addition to a WRB on vertical walls, and 2 layers of cross hatched 1x4 strapping over roof ply and Mento; a person jogging down the roof slope, nailed towards the rafters, and the 2nd run horizontally around them to support corrugated metal roofing.
If a making inspector insists that you install some sort of interior “vapor barrier,†you could always install a smart vapor retarder like MemBrain to fulfill your inspector.
I had been skeptical of Monthly bill Hulstrunk's assert that AccuVent baffles could endure currently being dense-packed within an enclosed cavity.